Thursday, February 19, 2009

Legal Alien!

I just returned from NYC where I got to meet my newborn niece, Rebecca Ann, who was born on February 2nd. I had heard from my parents that she was born with brown hair with highlights, which indicated she was definitely my sister's daughter. But I had to see this sight for my own eyes. On the left you can see her hair, and there are indeed highlights! In the center Rebecca seems to be practicing her "Touchdown" pose, I guess she wants to be an NFL Referee when she grows up.



But my favorite photo is her Statue of Lenin immitation...


So far she knows how to sleep and poop, and kinda eat. I'm sure she will learn more over time, but she's got the basics down.

Home Fried Home.
I arrived in the U.S. at ATL airport, and the first thing I noticed as I exited the customs area was the smell of fried food. There was no mistaken the long forgotten scent of an American's waistlines worst enemy, yet best friend, the deep frier. And as if something out of a movie, as I exited the jetway at JFK airport, I was greeted warmly by a passenger yelling at some gate personnel about something. He was furious. Ah, New York! And as I waited for my bags I wanted a water, until I noticed the absurd pricetag of $2 a bottle in a vending machine! After getting used to paying the equivalent of $0.40 for a bottle of water, no thanks! I'll settle for the water fountain. New York's water is perennially the best in the country.

Before visiting my sister and niece, I wandered through Bloomingdales and Barneys to see if people were still shopping. At lunch time, both were totally desolate. No one was shopping it seemed. And as I walked around the upper 50s and low 60s on the East Side, I noticed "Sale" signs in almost every store window, and a fair amount of vacant stores. I saw the same when I was in SOHO.

I only spent two days and two nights in New York City before heading out to the hamptons to relax, but in that short period I was able to get a true sense of how much has changed in New York. People are very down, and for serious reasons. Everyone knows people, lots of people, who are being laid off, the energy the city once had is just not there and everyone of my friends told me that things are worse than they appear in the media. That's bad!

Out East.
The weather was pleasant, albeit colder than I'm recently used to in Bogota. I got a nice photo of the quiet marina in Sag Harbor, which was nice and calming to just gaze out onto for a few minutes.


And upon leaving, Maggie, one of my parents' dogs, gave me a sad look. When she was a puppy, she once put one of her toys in my suitcase when I visited. I discovered her present when I got home and opened the suitcase. This time she didn't have access to my bags.

I expect to make my next visit to NYC in a few months for a friend's bachelor party. We'll see if things are any better by then.

While in New York, I visited the Colombian Consulate to obtain my Business Owner's Visa. The woman at the consulate was very nice, and helpful. It was my first pleasant experience dealing with Colombian institutions. However, I found it funny that the elevator remained unfixed since my first visit back in September. The elevator opens slightly below the floor level, which means there is a precarious first step to get in or out. Instead of having this problem fixed, they decided to colorfully highlight the floor (pictured to the right). But the good news is that I'm officially no longer an illegal immigrant in Colombia! Actually, I learned that the tourist visa lasts for up to 90 days, so I was never truly illegal, but I thought it was rather funny to say I was an illegal immigrant.

BBQing at 8,600 feet!
Since buying and assembling the charcoal BBQ for the terrace, we've had great difficulties maintaining a fire that allows the charcoal to light. I didn't think about the effect the thin mountain air would have when trying to grill with charcoal, should have put more thought into that. So, half a phone book later, I decided to search on the Internet for some information about BBQing, or just open flames, at high altitudes.

The solution to my problems came in the form of these little brickettes that burn at very high temperatures, allowing the charcoal to ignite. The resulting beautiful charcoal blaze can be seen in the photo to the right. The grill is ready in about 15 minutes, about the same as at sea level. Although I do miss my Weber. But at least now I can happily grill sausage and peppers, steaks and chicken to my heart's content!

Facebook.
Okay, okay! So I finally caved in and joined Facebook. Though the reason I joined was because my friends here in Bogota told me that virtually everyone in Colombia is on Facebook, and that it would be good for business to start a group. I joined and created a group for CrossFit Bogota to see if it helps business. Since joining Facebook, I've been "tagged" in a few photos of debaucherous nights out here in Bogota, as well as an ancient photo from my first visit to Shanghai in 2000. Good times!

And if you're interested in keeping tabs on me, I suppose you can add me as a friend, although I don't update my status all that often. It amazes me how people find the time, at all hours, to continually update their status. And to be named in a photo, or have a photo you didn't think anyone would ever publicly post is a little strange. Doesn't anyone like privacy anymore?

Honk if you're Colombian.
Something strange I've noticed is that Colombians really love their car horns. They honk for all sorts of reasons, and they honk so much that I actually took notice of it. Here are some reasons I've compiled for which a Colombian driver will honk:
  • To signal the doorman/security guard that they would like to enter a building
  • To signal a friend to come downstairs because they are waiting outside in the car
  • To warn pedestrians they are driving by even if you are standing motionless on the curb
  • To warn other cars at an intersection even if the other car(s) are at a dead stop
  • To notify a fellow driver that they are going to pass you on the wrong side
  • To notify a fellow driver that they are going to turn from the inside lane
  • To notify someone that they need to use the bathroom
  • To notify the clerk at the McDonald's drive-thru that they want an Extra Value Meal Supersized
Okay, so I was kidding about the last two items, but in all seriousness, Colombians honk a disproportionate amount in my observations. Granted, they are very offensive (as in "on the offense") drivers, but that tends to get them into lots of accidents.

The Truth Behind Bogota's Traffic.
This is really two fold.

First, continuing on the topic of accidents, Bogota (and I think this goes for all of Colombia) has a very interesting law on the books regarding traffic accidents. If you get into a car crash, neither driver may move their vehicle from the point of impact of the accident. This means that if you crash in a busy intersection, which is often the case, and are blocking two lanes, which is also often the case, neither you nor the other driver(s) can move your vehicles until the police arrive to file a report. In addition to causing a massive bottleneck creating a terrible traffic jam, you are fined for blocking traffic! I like the idea of fining people for being in an accident, but I do think they should be allowed to move their vehicles to the shoulder so the rest of the world can go on their way. I wish I had a photo of an accident, but I'm always driving by when I notice one and am too far passed it when I am able to take a photo.

Second, are the buses and busettas. Since there is no central metropolitan transit system, multiple, rival, bus companies compete for passengers along cryptic bus routes. The best part, and what causes all the traffic, is that there are no formal bus stops. Instead, a person can hail a bus, much like they hail a taxi, just about anywhere along one of the roads where buses drive. This also means that passengers can ring the bell to have the driver stop anywhere along those same roads. This leads to buses abruptly cutting off a taxi or car as they kamikaze towards the curb to pick up or drop off a passenger.

No Car Day!
But there is a solution to Bogota's traffic nightmares -- NO CAR DAY! That's right, two days each year, Bogota bans all personal transportation (outside of government officials or those with a special permit) from all roads in Bogota from 7am-8pm. This has to be seen to be appreciated. Literally, the roads are barren. For as far as the eye can see there is only yellow (taxis) and buses and busettas. Everyone on those two days must take some form of public transportation. Here are two photos of the roads during rush hour, which are normally bumper to bumper traffic.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Catching up

2009 has been off to an eventful start. The apartment is slowly acquiring furniture, my Spanish continues to improve, terrorists bombed a Blockbuster a few blocks from my apartment and directly across the street from a restaurant my friends and I eat at regularly, I got to see my first bullfight, watch the SuperBowl for the first time from outside the United States, CrossFit Bogota continues to grow at an impressive pace and I just became an uncle!

I know it has been nearly a month since my last update, but I've been busy working on the new business and haven't had the time to provide any colorful updates on my experiment here in Bogota.

Bombing
A week ago, a bomb blasted through a Blockbuster store on Kr 9 Cll 82, which sits directly across the street from Bagatelle, a brunch restaurant my friends and I frequent on at least a weekly basis. The bomb blew apart the garage and most of the front floor of the building. One 25 year old woman, and a man, were killed when the bomb exploded, and another 20 people were injured. I took the photo (left) the day after the blast when I was walking back to my apartment from my English class further north.

I was sitting in my apartment working when I heard the bomb (my apartment is a 7-8 minute walk to the bomb site, or about 6 blocks). It rained most of the day, accompanied by thunder and lightning, but the rain had stopped a couple of hours earlier. My initial reaction was "Thunder? No, not raining. Bomb? Maybe." Then about a half hour later blackberry messenger and SMS messages from friends asking if I heard the bomb and if I was all right. Ernesto returned to the apartment from Andino Mall, where he heard the blast, and asked if I knew about the bomb.

Unfortunately, I guess this is par for the course these days. I was in New York during both World Trade Center bombings, and spent 40+ hours at Ground Zero on 9/11, so I'm all too familiar with this crap now. Though this was the second significant bombing in Bogota in a month as the FARC (aka The Guerrilla) tries to let the world know they are still a force to be reckoned with despite their being largely tamed by the Colombian military in recent years under Uribe.

Here's more info if you'd like to see official news about the incident:
But it looks like the authorities have made arrests related to this deadly event. And just yesterday another FARC attack, this time in Cali, killed several police officers. Oh well, TIC!

Ole!
Well, now I finally earned the right to shout "OLE!" This weekend I got to see my first bullfight. And it was also my first return to La Macarena, my first neighborhood in Bogota, in some time. As we walked up to the Plaza del Toros, I saw the window of the room I rented in Sept/Oct.

I planned on making it a dry Sunday, but I forgot two very important items: 1) Colombians don't need an excuse to drink, so bullfighting provided an opportunity for them to cook up all sorts of concoctions for their boda bags, and 2) it was Superbowl Sunday!

Now, I haven't drank from a Boda Bag since the days of the fraternity and sorority Horseback Riding date parties back at Michigan, but streaming alcohol into your mouth from them from as high as you can turns out to be the norm at a bullfight. It was amazing, everyone shared with everyone else. And of course, everyone had some different mix of alcohols, so the result was quite a mess. But in spite of my inebriation, I was able to snap a few solid photos from my camera phone, which I humbly share with you below.


The coolest match, if you can call it that, was the Portuguese-style matador who fought the bull on horseback. His name was Joao something, and he put on an amazing show. At least on two occasions, the bull chased after the horse he rode, yet the bull barely grazed the horse's ass as Joao taunted the bull.

I suppose the saddest part was that after the fights, the bulls all end up being killed and then their meat sold at a butcher, and I didn't get to go buy any meat for my bbq from that butcher! Instead, we had to rush north to watch the Superbowl.

Futbol?
We arrived at a friend of a friend's apartment, where they had a keg! I hadn't seen a keg since leaving the US of A. It was a sight for sore eyes, or watery glazed over eyes as was in my case from all the boda bag drinking at the bullfight. Anyway, I barely even knew who was playing in the Superbowl this year since I have seen maybe one or two football games, and still don't have a TV in my apartment (I will when I go to NYC and bring one back!).

The party was full of Americans from the embassy, mostly military guys, and it marked the first time I felt like I was in the US while in Bogota. However, the chef they hired, and the cuisine served definitely tipped me off to the fact that I was not in the US.

CrossFit Bogota on the move...
Things are going well with CrossFit Bogota. There are nearly 30 paying members now, and I launched the new website a few weeks ago at www.crossfitbogota.com.



In the process of putting together the website, I learned some basic CSS and XHTML coding concepts, and taught myself how to use Adobe Photoshop at a basic level to create some images for new T-Shirts as well as the favicon for the website pictured above right. Not bad for a newbie. There are some great photos on the website as well. And CrossFit's main site now has a link to us in their affiliate section. We hope to send some good photos shortly for them to post on the website to give us some visibility.

And I have just about finished the construction in the terrace. Budgetary restrictions have forced me to delay finishing the project until I return from NYC. I am trying not to convert USD to COP unless I have to, although, the current conversion rate of nearly 2450:1 is tempting me to make a lump sum conversion now to lock in that great exchange rate. But I think the COP will depreciate further in coming months so I'm in no rush to convert. Nor am I in a rush to rent a locale (retail space). While there is no doubt renting a locale would increase my membership base significantly, it would be a little foolhardy to rent now while rents are still at highs. As the economy cools here I plan to take advantage of the strong (in a relative sense) dollar and the weakened economy here to lock in a good lease for the locale.

Transmilleno
I recently heard people refer to the Transmilenio transit system as Transmilleno ("lleno" meaning "full" or "packed"). I thought that was rather funny, and accurate. The trainbuses always seem to be stuffed full of people, and Colombians tend not to show the NYC Subway ettiquette of moving onto the platform if they're in the doorway to let people get out. Colombians also seem to not care about letting people out, instead trying to jam themselves in while people are trying to get out. Very few people tend to move more than a slight lean even if you say "permisso por favor." I fear many of these folks wouldn't survive long in NYC.

Relaxation.
My favorite new item for the apartment is my hamaca (hammock). Every morning when I return from my morning CrossFit and English classes, I enjoy a homemade fruit smoothie and warm bowl of oatmeal rocking back and forth in the sun while listening to some Bob Marley "live in concert" on the iPod sounddock. In fact, the other morning I took a photo from the hammock, which is hung out on the front balcony. The view is prettier than this photo suggests as I can clearly see the lush green mountain in the distance.

Now it's time to prepare for a flurry of guests over the coming few weeks, and an upcoming trip to NYC for a few days.